Oh Thursday! How you love to dangle the weekend under our noses and make us wait another day before you allow us rest.
Typically this fifth day of the week brings 8:30-5:30 classes with half an hour break between the two, but on this out of the ordinary Thursday I only had my morning Pattern Drafting class.
This mornings draft was for a basic skirt block. It was the easiest pattern we have drafted so far so guess what- I made two! One for Betty Lou (mannequin) and one for moi. You can view the sleeve and bodice blocks on google books. All of our hand-outs have been from “Metric Pattern Cutting” By Winifred Aldrich
I have never put on any of our drafts (we’ve done 8 different bodices’, 3 types of sleeves, and 2 collars) or information about what we really do in either basic fashion class, so here are the primary steps based on an easy pattern to draft.
I begin by taking several body measurements in cm – waist, hip, waist-to-hip, and the ‘style length’ (chosen) I then cut paper large enough to fit the pattern piece and begin making the pattern based on these measurements and a written set of instructions.
This is an older, simpler and less precise version of the skirt I drafted today.
The very first step is to make a dot in the top left corner of the paper and mark it 1. from there you square across the sheet taking half the hip measurement and adding 1.25 cm of ease. Label this point 2. You then square down from pt 1. and pt 2. the desired length of the skirt, which for me is 58.5 cm to fall just above the knee. Label point 3. From 3. you square across to to line 2. this forms the basic rectangular shape. These lines and measurements are all used in different fractions adding different amounts of ease to measure in angles, connecting points and forming side seams and darts. French hip curves (rulers) are used to give the waist and side seams shape. These curves fall outside of straight lines, for this pattern the greatest depth of the curve was .5 cm.
My finished draft looked like the basic skirt you begin with to make a basic ‘A’ line skirt thats pictured here in example 10.
The great thing about drafting these ‘basic block’ patterns is that they can be easily modified to create any shape or style.
This is page 57 from ‘Metric Pattern Cutting’. I will be referencing some of these examples as I create an entire outfit for my final project.
In Construction we are working on different garment closures, for next week we have zipper samples and then a finished skirt to demonstrate a zipper closure. The skirt I drafted today will help me out greatly, I can modify and create a one of kind piece for myself that will still count as an assignment credit!